When something breaks at home, most people either panic or put it off. You don’t need a workshop full of tools or contractor-level skills to handle the most common problems. With a bit of guidance and a few basics you probably already own, you can solve a surprising number of issues yourself—and save real money in the process.
This guide walks you through five practical, step-by-step DIY fixes for problems that come up in almost every home. Each one is written so you can follow along even if you’re new to repairs.
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1. Stop a Running Toilet (Without Calling a Plumber)
A constantly running toilet wastes water and drives up your bill, but most fixes take less than 15 minutes.
What you’ll need
- Adjustable wrench (optional)
- Replacement flapper (optional, a few dollars at any hardware store)
- Towel or sponge
Step-by-step
**Remove the tank lid and observe**
Flush the toilet with the lid off. Watch what happens: - Does water keep flowing into the overflow tube? - Does the flapper (rubber valve at the bottom) not seal properly? - Does the float sit too high so water never fully shuts off?
**Check the flapper seal**
- Turn off the water supply (valve behind/under the toilet, turn clockwise). - Flush to empty most of the water. - Reach in and feel the flapper. If it’s stiff, warped, or deteriorating, it likely needs replacing.
**Replace the flapper if needed**
- Unhook the old flapper from the overflow tube and chain. - Take it with you to the store to match size and type. - Clip the new one in place and attach the chain, leaving a slight slack (about half a link of play) so it can fully close.
**Adjust the float level**
- For a float cup: Look for a screw on top of the fill valve; turn it clockwise to lower the water level. - For a float ball: Gently bend the metal rod down so the ball sits lower. - The water should stop about 1 inch below the top of the overflow tube.
**Turn the water back on and test**
- Let the tank fill, then listen: it should stop on its own. - Add a few drops of food coloring to the tank and wait 10–15 minutes. If you see color in the bowl, the flapper still isn’t sealing and may need slight chain adjustment or a better-fitting model.
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2. Revive a Dead Power Strip (Safely) Before You Toss It
A “dead” power strip doesn’t always need replacement. Sometimes the issue is fixable in minutes.
What you’ll need
- Non-contact voltage tester (recommended but optional)
- Small screwdriver (if the strip has accessible screws)
- Flashlight
Step-by-step
**Check the outlet and reset buttons first**
- Plug something simple (like a lamp) directly into the wall outlet. If it doesn’t work, the outlet—not the strip—is the problem. - If your outlet is a GFCI (with “reset” and “test” buttons), press **RESET** firmly and re-test.
**Inspect the power strip visually**
- Unplug the strip completely from the wall. - Look for burn marks, melting, cracks, or a loose plug. If you see any major damage, **stop and discard it**—it’s not safe to repair.
**Reset the power strip**
- Many strips have a built-in reset switch or circuit breaker (small button). - Press the reset button firmly. Plug back in and test with a low-power device (lamp, phone charger).
**Check the on/off switch and indicator light**
- Flip the switch several times. - If the indicator light flickers, that may suggest a failing internal connection—time to replace, not repair.
**Test the cord (if you have a voltage tester)**
- With the strip unplugged, run your fingers along the cord feeling for kinks, crushed sections, or cuts. - If your tester detects no power at the strip but the outlet has power and the cord is visibly damaged, the safest solution is replacement. DIY rewiring on cheap strips usually isn’t worth the fire risk.
Rule of thumb: If you see burn marks, smell burning plastic, or the strip feels hot, do not attempt a detailed repair—replace it immediately.
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3. Quiet a Squeaky Door Without Special Products
Squeaky hinges are annoying, but you don’t always need WD-40 on hand to fix them.
What you’ll need
- Old rag or paper towels
- Small flathead screwdriver or butter knife
- Household lubricant:
- Preferred: silicone spray or light machine oil
- Emergency options: petroleum jelly or a tiny amount of cooking oil
Step-by-step
**Confirm the squeak source**
- Open and close the door slowly. Listen to each hinge. - Put light pressure on one hinge at a time to confirm which one squeaks.
**Protect the floor and door**
- Place an old rag under the hinge to catch drips. - If working near carpet, add extra paper towels to avoid stains.
**Loosen the hinge pin slightly**
- With the door mostly closed, use a flathead screwdriver or butter knife under the head of the hinge pin. - Gently tap the handle of the screwdriver with your hand or a light tool to lift the pin halfway out. - You don’t always need to remove it fully—just enough to create a gap.
**Apply lubricant directly on the pin and hinge**
- If using spray: Spray a small amount on the pin and into the hinge gap. - If using petroleum jelly or cooking oil: Rub a thin coat on the exposed part of the pin. Avoid excess; more is not better.
**Re-seat the pin and wipe excess**
- Push the pin back in firmly. - Open and close the door 10–15 times to work the lubricant into the hinge. - Wipe away any drips to prevent staining and dust buildup.
**Repeat if needed**
- If the squeak isn’t gone, repeat on the other hinges. - Persistent noise might mean the hinge screws are loose—tighten them with a screwdriver.
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4. Fix a Loose Cabinet Door That Won’t Stay Aligned
Cabinet doors that sag, rub, or don’t close properly can often be fixed with two simple adjustments.
What you’ll need
- Phillips screwdriver
- Small level (optional but helpful)
- Pencil or masking tape
Step-by-step
**Identify the type of hinge**
- Most modern kitchen cabinets use “European-style” hidden hinges (you only see a metal plate inside the cabinet with two or three screws). - These almost always have built-in adjustment screws.
**Check and tighten all mounting screws**
- Open the cabinet and locate the screws on both the door and cabinet side. - Tighten each screw snugly, but don’t over-torque them. - Sometimes this alone fixes a sagging door.
**Adjust the door side-to-side**
- On many hinges, the middle screw on the hinge arm controls horizontal movement. - Turn the screw a quarter turn at a time: - Turn clockwise to move the door closer to the cabinet side. - Turn counterclockwise to move it away. - Close the door after each small adjustment to see changes.
**Adjust the door up or down**
- Look for screws that attach the hinge plate to the cabinet wall. Loosening these slightly lets you slide the door up or down. - Support the door with your hand, adjust a few millimeters, then re-tighten and test.
**Adjust depth (door sticking out or sitting too far in)**
- Some hinges have a rear screw that moves the door in or out from the cabinet face. - Adjust until the front of the door aligns with neighboring doors.
**Fine-tune and mark the winning position**
- Once aligned, use a pencil or a small piece of masking tape to mark the hinge plate position. - If it ever slips again, you’ll know exactly where it should sit.
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5. Unclog a Slow Bathroom Sink Without Harsh Chemicals
Slow drains are often caused by hair and soap scum near the top of the pipe—not deep clogs that need a plumber.
What you’ll need
- Rubber gloves
- Small bucket or bowl
- Old toothbrush or small brush
- Zip-it style plastic drain tool or a straightened wire hanger
- Baking soda and vinegar (optional, for cleaning and odor)
Step-by-step
**Clear the stopper area first**
- Remove or lift the sink stopper. Some pull straight up; others twist. - If it won’t come out, look under the sink: there’s often a small rod and nut that hold it. Loosen the nut, slide the rod out, and then pull the stopper up.
**Physically remove debris**
- Put on gloves. Use a drain tool or bent wire hanger to pull hair and gunk from the drain opening. - Wipe debris into a trash bag, not back into the sink.
**Clean the stopper thoroughly**
- Hair and buildup often cling to the stopper itself. - Scrub it with an old toothbrush and dish soap until clean.
**Flush with hot water**
- Run hot tap water for 1–2 minutes to rinse loose material. - If the drain is still slow, continue to the next step.
**Use a baking soda and vinegar rinse (for cleaning, not heavy clogs)**
- Pour about 1/2 cup baking soda into the drain. - Follow with 1/2–1 cup white vinegar. - Let it fizz for 10–15 minutes, then flush with hot water. - This helps break down soap scum and reduce odors, but severe clogs may still need a snake.
**Reassemble the stopper**
- If you removed the rod under the sink, reinsert it into the correct hole in the stopper stem and tighten the nut by hand. - Test the up/down action of the stopper before fully tightening.
If water still drains poorly after these steps, the clog may be deeper in the P-trap or wall pipe. At that point, consider removing the P-trap with a bucket underneath or calling a professional if you’re not comfortable.
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Conclusion
You don’t need to be “handy” to solve everyday problems in your home—you just need clear steps and a willingness to try. Stopping a running toilet, checking a power strip, silencing a squeaky door, straightening crooked cabinets, and clearing a slow drain are all realistic DIY wins you can handle with basic tools and a calm approach.
Each successful repair builds your confidence for the next one. The more comfortable you get with small fixes, the less you’ll depend on emergency calls—and the more control you’ll have over your home, your time, and your budget.
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Sources
- [U.S. Environmental Protection Agency – Fix a Leak](https://www.epa.gov/watersense/fix-leak-week) - Explains how household leaks (including toilets) waste water and offers basic guidance on identifying and fixing them
- [Energy.gov – Electrical Safety](https://www.energy.gov/ceser/activities/electricity-resilience/electrical-safety) - Covers key electrical safety practices relevant when checking outlets and power strips
- [Family Handyman – How to Adjust Cabinet Hinges](https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-adjust-cabinet-hinges/) - Step-by-step visual guide to adjusting modern cabinet hinges for better alignment
- [Mayo Clinic – Household Chemical Safety](https://www.mayoclinic.org/healthy-lifestyle/adult-health/in-depth/household-chemicals/art-20046488) - Guidance on safe handling of household chemicals and why less-harsh methods are often preferable
- [Cornell University – Residential Plumbing Maintenance](https://waterquality.cce.cornell.edu/publications/CCEWQ-Residential-Plumbing-Maintenance.pdf) - Educational overview of common plumbing components and basic maintenance practices
Key Takeaway
The most important thing to remember from this article is that this information can change how you think about DIY Solutions.
