If you’ve seen those viral “Not My Job” photos—like crosswalk lines painted over trash, outlets half-installed, or signs slapped on crooked—you know exactly what happens when people rush through work and never circle back to fix it. A recent Bored Panda roundup of the laziest “Not My Job” moments is blowing up online right now, and it’s basically a highlight reel of projects abandoned at 80%.
You don’t control how other people work, but you do control what happens inside your own home. This is your chance to be the anti–“Not My Job” person: the one who actually finishes the job, lines things up, and makes it safe and usable—without spending a fortune.
Below are five common “half-done” problems you can fix yourself, with step‑by‑step instructions you can follow even if you’re new to DIY.
---
1. Crooked Or Sloppy Wall Shelves (How To Re‑Hang Them Right)
Viral “Not My Job” pics love a crooked shelf—books sliding, brackets nowhere near level, mystery screws sticking out. The good news: rehanging a bad shelf is a beginner‑friendly fix that transforms a room in under an hour.
You’ll need:
- Tape measure
- Pencil
- Level (a simple 9–12" one is fine; phone apps work in a pinch)
- Drill + drill bits
- Wall anchors + matching screws (check package for weight ratings)
- Screwdriver
Steps:
- **Remove the shelf safely.**
Clear everything off, then unscrew the shelf and brackets from the wall. Keep old screws/anchors only if they’re solid and in the right place (usually they’re not).
- **Find the correct height and position.**
Hold the shelf where you actually want it. Mark a light pencil line along the bottom edge. Step back and make sure it makes sense with doors, windows, and furniture.
- **Mark bracket positions.**
Place the brackets on the wall at your chosen spots. Use the level across the top of both brackets to ensure they’re perfectly level with each other, then mark the screw holes.
- **Check for studs (if possible).**
Use a stud finder or tap and listen. If you hit a stud, use wood screws without anchors for that hole. If not, use wall anchors sized for your shelf load.
- **Drill pilot holes and set anchors.**
Drill holes slightly smaller than your anchors. Gently tap anchors in flush with the wall using a hammer handle or the side of a screwdriver.
- **Attach brackets firmly.**
Screw brackets into anchors/studs. Recheck level before fully tightening. If they’re off, adjust now, not after everything’s assembled.
- **Install the shelf and test.**
Screw the shelf to the brackets if designed that way. Add weight gradually (books, decor) and watch for movement. If it’s solid and still level, you’re done.
Pro tip:
Always check the weight rating of your anchors. Overloaded anchors are exactly how shelves end up starring in the next “Not My Job” meme.
---
2. Paint Lines That Look Like A “Not My Job” Meme (Clean Up Edges Fast)
Those viral photos of paint “almost” cutting in around trim or slopped halfway onto the ceiling? That happens at home a lot: rushed job, no prep, visible forever.
You can rescue bad edges without repainting the whole wall.
You’ll need:
- Painter’s tape (good quality; cheap tape bleeds)
- Small angled brush (1–2")
- Matching wall paint and/or trim paint
- Damp rag
- Putty knife or old credit card
Steps:
- **Clean the area.**
Dust and lightly wipe the wall/trim where you’ll be painting. Paint won’t stick well to dust or grease.
- **Tape the correct line.**
- For wall-over-trim mistakes: run painter’s tape *on the trim*, right up against the wall, where the correct line should be.
- For wall-over-ceiling mistakes: tape *on the ceiling* right at the wall line.
Press tape down firmly with a putty knife or card to prevent bleed-through.
- **Feather the paint.**
Dip your angled brush lightly into your wall paint (or trim paint, depending on what you’re fixing). Don’t overload it. Apply in thin, controlled strokes away from the tape edge.
- **Keep a wet edge.**
Work in short sections so the paint doesn’t start drying before you blend it. Overlap slightly with the old paint so there’s no hard line.
- **Remove tape at the right time.**
When the paint is just barely dry to the touch but not fully cured (usually 20–40 minutes), slowly peel the tape back on itself at a 45° angle. This gives you a crisp line.
- **Touch up tiny flaws.**
For any minor bleed or misses, use a clean, barely damp rag to wipe while it’s still soft or a tiny detail brush once it’s dry.
Pro tip:
If you expect heavy bleed because the wall is textured, first paint over the tape with the existing color (wall or trim). Let it dry, then paint the new color. Any bleed is the same color and seals the edge for the final coat.
---
3. Misaligned Light Switch Plates & Outlets (Make Them Safe And Straight)
Those “Not My Job” photos of outlet covers hanging sideways, crooked switch plates, or exposed gaps around electrical boxes are more than ugly—they can be unsafe or collect dust and moisture.
You can usually fix this without touching live wires, but if anything looks sketchy, call a licensed electrician.
You’ll need:
- Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
- Non-contact voltage tester (recommended)
- Plastic outlet/switch spacers or small washers (optional but handy)
- New cover plates if old ones are cracked
Steps:
- **Turn off power if anything looks damaged.**
If the device is loose, cracked, or you see exposed wire, turn off the breaker for that circuit. Use a non-contact tester to confirm it’s dead before touching screws.
- **Remove the cover plate.**
Unscrew the plate and set it aside. Inspect: is the switch/outlet recessed too far, crooked, or sitting proud of the wall?
- **Adjust device alignment.**
Loosen the screws that hold the outlet/switch to the electrical box (not the wiring screws on the side). Gently straighten it so it’s vertical and centered.
- **Bring it flush with the wall.**
If the device sits too deep because of tile, paneling, or shims, use outlet spacers or small nylon washers on the mounting screws to bring it out to the same level as the wall.
- **Tighten carefully.**
Over-tightening can crack the device or plate. Tighten until snug and stable, but not bowed.
- **Reinstall or replace the cover plate.**
Line it up straight; start the screw, then gently snug it down. Again, don’t crank it—just enough that it doesn’t move.
- **Restore power and test.**
Flip the breaker back on if you turned it off. Test switches and outlets with a lamp or tester.
Pro tip:
If your wall has a big gap around the box, use “oversized” cover plates. They look cleaner and avoid that “unfinished jobsite” vibe.
---
4. Gaps Around Doors That Were “Good Enough” (Fix Drafts & Slamming)
The “Not My Job” spirit shows up a lot in doors: latches that barely catch, huge gaps you can see daylight through, or weatherstripping that stops 3" short of the floor. That means drafts, higher bills, and doors that never feel right.
You can fix most of this with basic tools and cheap materials.
You’ll need:
- Screwdriver
- Utility knife
- Adhesive foam weatherstripping
- Door sweep or draft stopper
- Optional: chisel and hammer (for stubborn strikes)
Steps:
- **Check hinge screws first.**
A sagging door often just means loose hinge screws. Tighten all hinge screws on the door and frame. If a screw spins without grabbing, use a longer screw (2–3") into the framing.
- **Test the latch.**
Close the door slowly. Does the latch line up with the strike plate? If it hits too high or low, your door is sagging (hinge issue). If it hits too far in or out, the strike needs adjustment.
- **Adjust the strike plate.**
- Minor fixes: Loosen the screws and shift the plate slightly, then retighten.
- Larger fixes: Remove plate, chisel a tiny bit more mortise in the needed direction, reposition, and screw back.
- **Seal side and top gaps.**
- Clean the door jamb.
- Measure and cut foam weatherstripping.
- Peel backing and stick it along the stop where the door closes, compressing slightly when shut but not so much that it’s hard to latch.
- **Add or replace a door sweep.**
- Measure the width of the door.
- Cut the sweep to size with a hacksaw (for metal) or utility knife (for rubber/plastic).
- Screw it to the bottom of the door so the rubber just kisses the threshold, not dragging hard.
- **Test for drafts.**
At night, shine a flashlight from one side of the closed door while someone looks from the other. Wherever light leaks, air leaks. Adjust or add weatherstripping accordingly.
Pro tip:
If you rent and can’t drill into doors, use removable draft stoppers or adhesive-only sweeps that won’t damage surfaces.
---
5. Half-Stuck Peeling Caulk In Bathrooms (Remove And Reseal Cleanly)
Nothing says “Not My Job” like a tub with half-peeled caulk hanging off the edge, moldy patches that were “almost” scraped off, or three different colors of silicone layered over each other. This isn’t just ugly—it can lead to water damage behind walls.
Recaulking looks intimidating but is totally DIY-friendly if you go step by step.
You’ll need:
- Caulk remover (gel) or a hair dryer
- Utility knife or caulk scraper
- Painter’s tape
- Bathroom-grade 100% silicone or siliconized acrylic caulk (mold-resistant)
- Caulk gun (if using tubes)
- Paper towels + rubbing alcohol or bathroom cleaner
Steps:
- **Remove old caulk completely.**
- Apply caulk remover gel per instructions *or* warm old caulk with a hair dryer.
- Carefully cut and scrape out all loose and cracked material. Take your time—this is the most important step.
- **Clean and dry the joint.**
Scrub away any soap scum or mildew. Wipe with rubbing alcohol and let dry fully. New caulk won’t stick to wet or dirty surfaces.
- **Mask a clean line.**
Run painter’s tape on both sides of the joint, leaving a gap the width you want for your bead (usually 1/4"). Straight tape = straight caulk.
- **Cut the caulk tip correctly.**
Cut the nozzle at a 45° angle with a small opening (you can always make it bigger). Puncture the inner seal if needed.
- **Apply a smooth bead.**
Hold the gun at a 45° angle, squeeze steadily, and move at a consistent speed. Aim for a continuous bead—don’t start and stop every few inches.
- **Tool the joint.**
Wet your finger or use a caulk tool. Gently press and smooth the bead, pushing it into the gap. Wipe excess on paper towels as you go.
- **Remove tape while wet.**
Carefully peel the tape away at a 45° angle before the caulk skins over (within a few minutes). This leaves razor-sharp lines.
- **Let it cure fully.**
Follow the label—usually 24 hours before getting it wet. Respect this; shortcuts here lead straight back to moldy, peeling caulk.
Pro tip:
Use white or clear caulk in most tubs/showers. Colored caulk shows every wobble in your line; clear and white are more forgiving visually.
---
Conclusion
Those viral “Not My Job” photos are funny because they’re so painfully familiar: almost-finished shelves, halfway-straight outlet covers, doors that mostly close, bathrooms “good enough for now.” The difference between living in a meme and living in a space that works is a handful of tools, a small block of time, and the decision to actually finish the job.
Start with one of the fixes above—straighten a crooked shelf, clean up a paint edge, or finally reseal that tub. Take a before-and-after photo. You’ll see how much impact a fully-finished job has on how your home feels.
Then, share your results. Every time you fix one of these almost-jobs, you’re quietly proving that “Not My Job” doesn’t live at your address.
Key Takeaway
The most important thing to remember from this article is that this information can change how you think about DIY Solutions.
