Most “small” house problems don’t stay small for long. A dripping faucet, a door that won’t latch, or a constantly running toilet can quietly waste money and drive you crazy. The good news: you can fix many of these issues yourself with basic tools, a little patience, and the right guidance.
This guide walks you step‑by‑step through five practical household repairs you can safely tackle today—no advanced skills required.
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1. Quiet a Dripping Faucet and Stop Wasting Water
A dripping faucet can waste gallons of water a day and bump up your utility bill. In many cases, the fix is just a worn-out washer or cartridge.
What you’ll need
- Adjustable wrench
- Screwdriver (Phillips or flathead)
- Replacement washer or cartridge (check faucet brand/model if possible)
- Plumber’s tape (Teflon tape)
- Small towel
Step-by-step: Fixing a compression (two-handle) faucet
**Shut off the water supply**
Look under the sink for two small valves (hot and cold). Turn both clockwise until they stop. Open the faucet to release any remaining water.
**Plug the drain**
Use the sink stopper or a rag. Small screws and parts can easily disappear down the drain.
**Remove the handle**
Pop off the decorative cap if there is one, then loosen the screw under it. Pull the handle straight up or off the stem.
**Take out the stem assembly**
Use the adjustable wrench to loosen the nut holding the stem in place. Carefully pull the stem out. At the bottom, you’ll see a small rubber washer secured by a screw.
**Replace the worn washer**
Unscrew the small screw, remove the old washer, and match it at a hardware store if you don’t already have a replacement. Install the new washer and tighten the screw snugly (not overly tight).
**Reassemble the faucet**
Reinsert the stem, tighten the nut, and reinstall the handle and decorative cap.
**Turn water back on and test**
Slowly open the shutoff valves under the sink. Turn the faucet on and off a few times. The drip should be gone. If not, the seat inside may be worn, or you may need a full stem replacement.
If you have a single-handle cartridge faucet
- The principle is similar: shut off water, remove handle, pull out cartridge, replace cartridge with identical new one, and reassemble.
- Take the old cartridge to the store to match brand and type.
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2. Fix a Toilet That Won’t Stop Running
A running toilet can waste hundreds of gallons of water per day, but it’s often caused by just one faulty part in the tank.
What you’ll need
- Replacement flapper (or fill valve kit if needed)
- Adjustable wrench (for water line if replacing valve)
- Towel or small bucket
Step-by-step: Diagnosing the problem
**Remove the tank lid carefully**
Set it on a flat, safe surface. The porcelain can crack easily if dropped.
**Do a quick visual check**
Common culprits: - **Flapper**: Rubber piece covering the flush valve at the bottom. If it’s warped or not sealing, water leaks into the bowl. - **Float / Fill valve**: If the water rises above the overflow tube, the fill valve/float may be set too high or failing. - **Chain**: If the chain to the flapper is too tight, the flapper can’t close fully.
**Test the flapper first**
Push the flapper down by hand. If the running sound stops, the flapper likely needs replacing.
Replacing a flapper (most common fix)
**Turn off the water to the toilet**
Turn the valve on the wall clockwise until it stops. Flush the toilet to drain most of the water from the tank.
**Remove the old flapper**
Unhook it from the flush valve ears, and detach the chain from the handle lever.
**Install the new flapper**
- Attach the new flapper to the same mounting ears. - Hook the chain to the lever with a bit of slack—enough that the flapper can fully close, but not so much that it won’t lift when you flush.
**Turn water back on and test**
Let the tank fill, then flush several times. Adjust chain length if needed.
Adjusting the water level (if tank overfills)
**Find the float mechanism**
- Modern toilets: vertical float attached to the fill valve. - Older toilets: float ball on an arm.
**Lower the float**
- For vertical floats: Turn the adjustment screw on top or slide the clip down the rod per manufacturer instructions. - For float ball: Gently bend the float arm down so the valve shuts off sooner.
**Flush and verify**
The water level should stop about 1 inch below the top of the overflow tube.
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3. Fix a Door That Won’t Latch or Keeps Swinging Open
Misaligned doors are annoying but often easy to correct with a screwdriver and a bit of adjustment.
What you’ll need
- Phillips screwdriver
- Optional: wood toothpicks or matchsticks (no heads), wood glue
- Utility knife (optional)
Step-by-step: Realign a door that won’t latch
**Check where it’s misaligned**
Slowly close the door and watch where the latch hits the strike plate on the frame: - Too high - Too low - Not reaching the plate (door sagging or hinges loose)
**Tighten hinge screws**
- Open the door and tighten all screws on the hinges (both on the door and the frame). - Pay attention to the top hinge—loose top hinges often cause sagging.
**Repair stripped screw holes (if screws won’t tighten)**
- Remove the loose screw. - Fill the hole with wood glue and push 2–3 wood toothpicks or matchsticks (no heads) into the hole. - Snap them flush with the surface, wipe excess glue. - Reinsert the screw and tighten. You’ve effectively “restored” the wood for a solid grip.
**Test the door again**
If it latches now, you’re done. If the latch still hits above or below the strike opening, adjust the strike plate.
Adjusting the strike plate
**Loosen strike plate screws**
Just loosen them slightly, don’t remove.
**Shift the plate**
Move it up or down slightly to match where the latch naturally meets. Retighten screws.
**If more movement is needed**
You may need to: - Remove the plate. - Slightly enlarge the mortise (the recess) in the frame with a utility knife or small chisel. - Reposition and reinstall the plate.
**Test the latch**
Close the door gently. It should latch without needing to slam or lift the door.
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4. Clear a Slow-Draining Sink Without Harsh Chemicals
Slow drains commonly come from buildup of hair, soap scum, or grease. You can often clear the line with simple tools instead of relying on strong chemical drain openers.
What you’ll need
- Plunger (cup-style for sinks)
- Drain snake or plastic “zip” tool
- Bucket or bowl
- Old towel or rag
- Rubber gloves
Step-by-step: Try a simple plunger first
**Remove the sink stopper or drain cover**
Clear any visible debris.
**Block the overflow opening**
Use a wet rag to block the overflow hole (if your sink has one). This helps create better suction when plunging.
**Fill the sink with some water**
1–2 inches of water is enough to help create a seal.
**Plunge firmly**
Place the plunger over the drain, press down to seal, then plunge up and down 10–15 times. Remove the plunger and see if water drains faster. Repeat once or twice if needed.
Use a drain snake for hair and gunk
**Insert the snake or plastic zip tool**
Feed it slowly into the drain. You’ll feel resistance when you hit a clog.
**Twist and pull back out**
For a metal snake, rotate the handle to grab the blockage. For plastic barbed tools, just push in and pull out. Remove and discard the debris.
**Flush with hot water**
Run hot water for a few minutes to help wash away any remaining buildup.
If the clog persists: Clean the P-trap (under the sink)
**Place a bucket under the P-trap**
The P-trap is the curved pipe section under the sink. Water will spill out when you open it.
**Loosen the slip nuts**
Unscrew the nuts at both ends of the trap by hand or with pliers (gently, to avoid cracking plastic).
**Remove and clean the trap**
Empty the water and debris into the bucket, and clean the inside of the trap.
**Reassemble and test**
Reattach the trap, tighten the nuts snug but not overly tight, then run water and check for leaks.
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5. Patch a Small Drywall Hole So It Blends In
From doorknobs to picture hooks, drywall takes a lot of abuse. Small holes are straightforward to repair and can make a big difference in how a room looks.
What you’ll need
- Spackling paste or lightweight joint compound
- Putty knife (2–4 inch)
- Sanding sponge or fine-grit sandpaper (120–220 grit)
- Damp cloth
- Touch-up paint and brush (optional but ideal)
For nail and screw holes (up to pencil-sized)
**Clean the area**
Remove any loose drywall dust or flaking paper around the hole.
**Apply spackle**
Scoop a small amount on the putty knife and press it into the hole. Scrape the knife flat across the surface to remove excess.
**Let it dry**
Follow the drying time on the product label (often 30 minutes to a few hours).
**Lightly sand**
Use a sanding sponge or fine sandpaper to smooth the patch flush with the wall.
**Wipe and paint**
Wipe off dust with a damp cloth and touch up with matching paint for a seamless finish.
For slightly larger holes (up to about 2 inches)
**Use a patch kit (if available)**
Many home centers sell adhesive mesh patch kits.
**Apply the mesh patch**
Center it over the hole and press firmly so it sticks flat.
**Cover with joint compound**
- Apply a thin layer over the mesh with your putty knife, feathering the edges outward. - Allow to dry completely.
**Sand and apply a second coat**
- Lightly sand, wipe dust, then apply a second, thinner coat extending a bit wider than the first. - After it dries, sand again until smooth and blended.
**Prime and paint**
For the best match and to prevent flashing (a shiny/uneven spot), prime the patched area before painting.
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Conclusion
Most small household issues don’t require a professional or a full weekend. With basic tools and clear steps, you can:
- Stop water waste from dripping faucets and running toilets
- Make doors latch and close properly again
- Restore proper drainage without harsh chemicals
- Patch and hide everyday wall damage
Start with one repair, follow the steps slowly, and give yourself permission to learn as you go. As you build confidence, you’ll save money, prevent bigger problems, and keep your home working the way it should—without waiting on anyone else.
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Sources
- [U.S. Environmental Protection Agency – Fix a Leak](https://www.epa.gov/watersense/fix-leak-week) - Explains how small leaks in faucets and toilets waste water and why fixing them matters
- [Kohler – Faucet Repair & Care](https://support.kohler.com/hc/en-us/categories/360000016774-Faucets) - Manufacturer guidance on identifying faucet types and replacing cartridges or washers
- [Fluidmaster – How a Toilet Works & Common Repairs](https://www.fluidmaster.com/toilet-repair/how-to-fix-a-toilet/) - Step-by-step instructions and diagrams for toilet flappers, fill valves, and adjustments
- [Family Handyman – How to Fix a Door That Won’t Latch](https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-fix-a-door-that-wont-latch/) - Practical visual walkthrough of hinge and strike plate adjustments
- [U.S. Department of Energy – Reducing Hot Water Use for Energy Savings](https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/reducing-hot-water-use-energy-savings) - Background on how plumbing fixes and water efficiency impact utility costs
Key Takeaway
The most important thing to remember from this article is that this information can change how you think about Household Repairs.
