Most people don’t call a pro because they love spending money; they call because they’re not sure where to start. This guide changes that. Below are five common problems you can realistically fix yourself with basic tools, clear steps, and no guesswork.
Each solution walks you through what to check, what to try first, and how to know when it’s time to stop and call a professional.
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1. Quiet a Dripping Faucet (Without Replacing the Whole Thing)
A dripping faucet wastes water, adds to your bill, and is just plain annoying. In many cases, you can stop the drip by replacing a small internal part instead of buying a new faucet.
What you’ll need
- Adjustable wrench or pliers
- Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
- Replacement cartridge or washers/O-rings (match your faucet type)
- Towel and small container (for tiny parts)
Step-by-step
**Shut off the water supply**
- Look under the sink for two small valves (hot and cold). - Turn both clockwise until they stop. - Turn the faucet on to confirm the water is off.
**Plug the drain**
- Use the sink stopper or a rag. - This prevents small screws or parts from falling down the drain.
**Remove the handle**
- Pry off any decorative cap with a small flathead screwdriver. - Unscrew the handle screw and lift the handle off. - Keep screws and parts in your container.
**Inspect the faucet type**
- **Cartridge faucet**: You’ll see a plastic/metal cartridge. - **Compression faucet**: You’ll see a stem with a rubber washer at the end. - Note the brand/model if visible; it helps you buy the right replacement.
**Remove the internal parts**
- Use a wrench to loosen the retaining nut. - Carefully pull out the cartridge or stem. - Check O-rings and washers for cracks, grooves, or flattening.
**Replace worn parts**
- Take the old parts to a hardware store to match size and type. - Install new O-rings/washers or a new cartridge in the same orientation as the old one. - Lightly lubricate rubber parts with plumber’s grease if available (not petroleum jelly).
**Reassemble and test**
- Reinstall the retaining nut, handle, and any caps. - Turn the water valves back on slowly. - Test the faucet. If the drip is gone, you’re done.
When to call a pro:
- The shut-off valves won’t turn or start leaking.
- The faucet body is cracked or corroded.
- You can’t identify or remove the internal parts without damaging them.
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2. Reset a Dead Outlet Safely (Before Assuming It’s “Bad”)
When an outlet suddenly stops working, it’s often a simple protection feature—usually a tripped GFCI or breaker—not a dead outlet. You can safely check and reset these without touching live wires.
What you’ll need
- Plug-in device (lamp/phone charger)
- Access to your home’s breaker panel
- Optional: non-contact voltage tester
Step-by-step
**Test with a known-good device**
- Plug a working lamp or phone charger into the “dead” outlet. - Confirm it truly has no power.
**Check nearby GFCI outlets**
- Look in the same room, bathroom, kitchen, garage, or hallway for outlets with TEST/RESET buttons. - Plug your device into each and see if they work. - If the GFCI is tripped, the RESET button will feel loose or popped out.
**Press RESET on GFCI outlets**
- Press RESET firmly until it clicks. - Test your dead outlet again. - Repeat for any other GFCIs on the same circuit.
**Check the breaker panel**
- Find your electrical panel (basement, garage, utility room). - Look for a switch that’s either fully in the middle or slightly off compared to others. - Toggle the suspect breaker fully OFF, then fully ON.
**Retest the outlet**
- Plug your device back in. - If it works now, the issue was a trip, not a bad outlet.
**Rule out overloading**
- If the breaker or GFCI keeps tripping, reduce what’s plugged into that circuit (space heaters, hair dryers, toasters). - Spread heavy loads across different outlets/circuits if possible.
Safety rules (don’t skip these):
- Never remove the outlet cover or touch bare wires unless you’re trained and comfortable.
- If you smell burning, see scorch marks, or feel heat on the outlet, stop using it immediately.
- Breaker/GFCI keeps tripping with normal use.
- Outlet is loose, burned, cracked, or warm to the touch.
- Multiple outlets in different rooms lose power without a clear cause.
When to call a pro:
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3. Fix a Toilet That Won’t Stop Running
A constantly running toilet is often caused by one of three parts inside the tank: the flapper, the chain, or the fill valve. Most of these fixes don’t require tools and can be done in under 30 minutes.
What you’ll need
- Adjustable wrench (sometimes optional)
- Replacement flapper (if old/worn)
- Towel (for drips)
Step-by-step
**Remove the tank lid and look inside**
- Set the lid aside carefully—it’s fragile. - Flush once and watch how the parts move.
**Check the flapper**
- The flapper is the rubber piece at the bottom that lifts when you flush. - After the flush, it should drop and seal the opening. - If it looks warped, cracked, slimy, or doesn’t seal fully, it likely needs replacing.
**Inspect the chain**
- The chain connects the handle arm to the flapper. - If it’s too tight, the flapper can’t close fully. - If it’s too loose, the flapper may not lift enough to flush properly. - Adjust so there’s just a bit of slack when the flapper is down.
**Replace the flapper (if needed)**
- Turn off the water at the shut-off valve behind the toilet. - Flush to empty most of the water from the tank. - Unhook the old flapper from the overflow tube and chain. - Attach the new flapper in the same way and reconnect the chain. - Turn the water back on and test.
**Set the water level correctly**
- Most tanks have a “fill line” mark. - If water rises above it and spills into the overflow tube, your fill valve is set too high. - Adjust the float: - For a float cup: turn the small screw on the top or move the clip on the rod. - For a float ball: gently bend the metal rod downward so the ball closes the valve sooner.
**Listen for quiet**
- After adjustment, the tank should fill, then stop with no ongoing hissing. - Mark the water level and recheck in 10–15 minutes to confirm it’s not slowly rising.
When to call a pro:
- Water keeps running even after flapper and float adjustments.
- You see water leaking at the base of the toilet.
- The shut-off valve won’t turn or starts leaking.
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4. Revive a Slow or Smelly Sink Drain
If water pools in your sink or you notice foul odors, buildup in the drain is usually to blame. Skip harsh chemicals when possible; mechanical cleaning is often safer and more effective.
What you’ll need
- Rubber gloves
- Bucket or bowl
- Old toothbrush or small brush
- Plunger (cup-style for sinks)
- Optional: plastic drain snake
Step-by-step
**Clear and clean the stopper**
- Remove any sink stopper or drain cover. - Many bathroom sink stoppers lift out; some require loosening a nut under the sink. - Clean hair, soap scum, and debris with a brush under running water.
**Try a plunger (for partial clogs)**
- Fill the sink with enough water to cover the plunger cup. - Block any overflow hole with a damp cloth. - Place the plunger over the drain and plunge firmly 15–20 times. - Lift quickly and see if water drains faster.
**Use a plastic drain snake**
- Insert the snake into the drain and push gently until you feel resistance. - Twist and pull out slowly to capture hair and gunk. - Repeat a few times, rinsing the snake between passes.
**Clean the P-trap (if comfortable)**
- Place a bucket under the curved pipe (P-trap) beneath the sink. - Loosen the slip nuts by hand or with pliers, then remove the trap. - Empty debris into the bucket and clean with water and a brush. - Reinstall the trap, ensuring washers are seated correctly.
**Flush with hot water**
- Run hot (not boiling) water for several minutes to help clear remaining residue. - For odor control, you can follow with a small amount of baking soda and vinegar, then hot water again.
Avoid:
- Repeated heavy use of chemical drain cleaners—they can damage pipes and are hazardous to handle.
- Forcing metal tools down the drain; they can puncture or scratch pipes.
- Multiple fixtures in the same area drain slowly or back up.
- You hear gurgling from other drains when one is used.
- The clog returns quickly after cleaning.
When to call a pro:
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5. Reset a “Dead” Wi‑Fi Router and Stabilize Your Connection
Before replacing your router or calling your provider, a structured reset and basic repositioning can often solve frequent drops, slow speeds, or “no internet” issues.
What you’ll need
- Access to your modem and router
- Your internet provider account info (just in case)
- Smartphone or laptop for speed testing
Step-by-step
**Power-cycle in the right order**
- Unplug the **modem** from power. - Unplug the **router** from power. - Wait at least 30 seconds. - Plug the modem back in first; wait until all necessary lights stabilize. - Then plug the router back in and wait 2–3 minutes.
**Check physical connections**
- Confirm the cable from the wall goes into the modem’s WAN/IN port. - Confirm the cable from modem goes to router’s WAN/Internet port, not a LAN port. - Make sure cables click firmly into place.
**Improve router placement**
- Place the router in a central, elevated position, away from thick walls and metal objects. - Keep it off the floor and out of closed cabinets. - Move it several feet away from microwaves, cordless phone bases, and baby monitors.
**Split network bands (if available)**
- Log into your router’s admin page (the address is usually printed on the router; often something like 192.168.0.1). - Give 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz bands distinct names (e.g., “Home_2G” and “Home_5G”). - Use 5 GHz for close, high-speed devices (laptops, TVs) and 2.4 GHz for farther, low-bandwidth devices (smart plugs, older phones).
**Update router firmware**
- In the router admin page, look for “Firmware” or “Update.” - Follow instructions to check for and install the latest version. - Do not unplug during the update process.
**Test your connection**
- Use a site like speedtest.net on a wired device (if possible) to get a baseline. - Compare speeds on Wi‑Fi close to the router and in a distant room. - If speeds are normal near the router but poor far away, consider adding a Wi‑Fi extender or mesh system.
When to call your provider or a pro:
- No internet even with a device directly wired to the modem.
- Frequent outages that don’t improve after proper resets.
- Evidence of water damage or severe wear on incoming cables.
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Conclusion
You don’t need to be “handy” to solve everyday problems—you just need a clear process, a few basic tools, and a stopping point where you hand it off to a professional.
By tackling small issues like dripping faucets, running toilets, “dead” outlets, slow drains, and unstable Wi‑Fi, you protect your home, cut down on repair costs, and gain confidence for the next project. Start with one fix, follow the steps carefully, and build from there.
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Sources
- [U.S. Environmental Protection Agency – Fix a Leak](https://www.epa.gov/watersense/fix-leak-week) - Details how much water is wasted by leaks like dripping faucets and running toilets
- [Family Handyman – How to Fix a Leaky Faucet](https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-fix-a-leaky-faucet/) - Visual walkthroughs of common faucet types and repairs
- [U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission – Electrocution Hazards with Home Wiring](https://www.cpsc.gov/s3fs-public/electrocution.pdf) - Safety information for working around electrical outlets and circuits
- [University of Georgia Extension – Household Toilet Problems](https://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C1070) - Explains causes and fixes for common toilet issues
- [Federal Communications Commission – Internet Speed Guide](https://www.fcc.gov/consumers/guides/household-broadband-guide) - Guidance on internet speeds and basics for troubleshooting slow connections
Key Takeaway
The most important thing to remember from this article is that this information can change how you think about DIY Solutions.
